The cathedral sits opposite the castle on a large high peninsula above the River Tees, with Palace Green in between the two.
The Theology Department, where we both studied in 1997, and the library, form the other two sides of the green.
The Norman Castle stands above the narrow and cobbled mediaeval streets of Durham city, which wind up to the peninsula formed by the twists and turns of the River Wear.
Further along the peninsula, Durham Cathedral towers over castle and city. Built by the Normans soon after their 11th century conquest of Britain, it remains to this day a place of pilgrimage, its stone austere interior almost unchanged from Norman times.
Below the Cathedral, the river winds its way around in a spectacular fashion (the area has been declared a World Heritage site). Soon after our arrival in Durham, we enjoyed revisiting the famous riverbanks, and enjoying the autumn colours.
We stayed in The Avenue, right next door to where we used to live in 1997. Jan’s house was identical to our old one, and it was like coming home to walk back in through the door. (On the right: our 1997 house. On the left: our 2007 B&B.)
The view from our window was of spectacular autumn foliage, which changed significantly even in the short time we were there.
On day one:
On the last day:
County Durham was the land of the Prince Bishops, who ruled the area as a virtually independent state for centuries. Mediaeval Durham had its own nobility and court, and its own coinage. As testimony to the strategic location of the county, forts and castles are dotted around the countryside—some in ruins (Bowes, Barnard Castle), and some still complete and functioning today (Raby and Lumley).
(Above: our favourite, Raby Castle; unfortunately, it was closed to the public by the time we arrived in Durham.)
The prominence of the Cathedral prompted Sir Walter Scott to write the famous lines ‘Grey towers of Durham—yet well I love thy mixed and massive piles—half church of God; half castle ’gainst the Scot; And long to roam those venerable aisles, with records of deeds long since forgot’.
Within and around these ancient buildings, and now spilling out across the Wear into the surrounding city, lies the University of Durham, founded in 1832 on the Oxbridge collegiate system.
It is interesting that the word ‘grey’ is often used to describe County Durham and its people. Its cathedral was described by the poet Scott as having ‘grey towers’; the Collins Guide to English Parish Churches describes Durham as a “grey, gaunt, curiously withdrawn county”, a county where “the people do not wear their hearts on their sleeve”, a county where treasures are concealed from the casual passer-by.
John and I both admit we have grown to love this greyness and gauntness. We had a thoroughly enjoyable time in the cold and grey of Durham!!
4 comments:
knosw should, as most do' the magnificent city of Durham sits on the wear, not the cess pool of the vTees. Stay away from Durham southern heathern!
Come on, Anonymous, get out there to upper Teesdale. How can you ever say the Tees is a cess pool if you have been up there?!
And is not the lower Wear at Sunderland as much of a cesspool as the lower Tees at Middlesborough, beautiful though it is higher up?
I think you are naughty to call them names and tell them to stay away. That's a bit rude. And you can't spell.
Funny how they said Durham was on the Tees because later in the blog they say it's on the Wear. That's an Oxbridge education for you!
my ancestors in recent history followed a well trodden path from from the south west Scotland via Cumbria to teesdale via Knarsdale, Alston, Haltwhistle, Blanchland, Stanhope,Burnhope, Middleton-in-Teesdale to find a hard living down the pit
a route which embraces rivers tyne,tees and Wear as well as some of the most hauntingly beautiful scenery
along the way the people developed a hard exterior
which protects a rich warmth of spirit,..... which only an acedemic could confuse with grey
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